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Menswear designer, Raimund Berthold, is a name that is set to cause quite a stir.
‘What I do is not about completely reinventing menswear,’ the Austrian-born designer insists, yet the Central Saint Martins graduate has certainly taken a refreshing and refined look at traditional menswear, turning his attention to classic, asymmetric outerwear pieces, with focus on alterations to their shape and texture.
Berthold’s portfolio is edgy and definitive, and since graduating in 2005, he has established his self-titled label, which features fearless modern pieces that stem from a stylistic yet humble approach to contemporary design.
Berthold stands by the simple premise that the people who wear his clothes appreciate design and comfort, yet are also brave enough to want to talk about it if asked. A modest admirer of good design is to whom the label appeals, and his new collection is just that; a bold collection, fresh yet utilitarian.
He is known for his teaming of natural and synthetic fabrics, and similarly, for his use of unconventional materials for classic styles. His use of neoprene for a gentleman’s trench coat and dense wool for track pants and parka jackets for example, demonstrate his concept of contemporary design that goes against the grain.
His Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, was originally shown at London Collections: MEN last year, and Berthold continues to nod to those with an appreciation for style as well as wearability. Through his use of strong, clean silhouettes and outsized tailoring, he concentrates on modern design with a backdrop of gentlemen’s’ formality and tailoring, in an array of all-weather fabrics to exemplify the modern male, pro-active and on trend.
Free from defined shapes, his minimalist approach is defined by his simplistic attitude towards menswear, where he is keen to experiment with traditional aesthetics, instead exploring unusual combinations of material and form.
His AW14 collection is infused with splashes of colour amongst the clean-cut black, grey and white. Graphic print has been incorporated, to create a collection that is plainly sophisticated whilst still staying true to the innovative nature of Raimund Berthold’s work. It is clear to see his designs have evolved since his first all-white collection when he first became known for his unique take on menswear, and he believes this is a crucial aspect of his work. ‘I think it’s important that people can see where the clothes have come from, from where they have evolved.’ His new collection certainly gives insight into his journey as an artist, but also a sustained understanding of how men prefer to be acknowledged with regard to their fashion. City style has never looked so inviting, and drawing from stints in New York as well as London, Berthold is presenting pieces that the modern man is able to function in, whilst indulging in the urbanity and style that they love to love.
Visit Berthold’s website for a closer look, www.berthold-uk.com